North Cascades October 2011

Nevada is having a terrific time!

In October we returned to remove the cameras. The forecast was for snow. Trace amounts and warmer temps and rain prior to our trip. I believe when I last checked NOAA the forecast was for light snow and rain low of 28 high of 32. Seemed fine, cold, but fine we were packed for cold weather. We started walking in and it quickly began snowing. We were 1500′ and 3mi shy of our camp. On the way in we passed a couple headed out early. They told us there was some snow on the ground in the basin where we were headed. We past two more parties on their way out. One was a solo ultralight hiker who was unprepared to sleep on snow. He was forfeiting a larger trip to the weather. We next past a couple of photographers who were leaving because they wanted blue sky and sun. The weather was getting worse now, but by tomorrow it would clear up into a spectacular day.

View of Windy from trail head.

However, the weather they were evading was becoming heavy snow and all three parties seemed like rational folks who had decided it was in their best interest to get out. It was that thought that began to scare me. Were we making a bad decision? Nevada was fine with the snow storm we were walking into. We had all the gear we needed. We talk for a while. I let her know that I was fine leaving the cameras in for the winter and heading back to town for a room. She reassured me that we were prepared for snow. We ended up eating some trail mix and moving on to camp.

We got to camp and set up the the lunar duo just as it began to snow.

Right after we set the tent up it really started coming down.

So, we got into the tent and played cards.

Once the snow let up, Nevada made us a snow sherpa. He stayed at camp drinking tea.

We chose the first camp we saw in the basin and set up quick. Just as we did the snow picked up again. The temps were in the high 20’s and we were both cold. For dinner we had tortellinis in a spicy herbed broth. We cooked it on our new stove and pot-stand. We were getting suspicious that our old (10yr?) Don Johnson photon stove wasn’t preforming as well as it use to. So we built a new one. We chose Scott Henderson’s open chimney design. It seems to work fine. It takes longer (1’40”) to boil, but we’ve got plenty of time in the woods and we’re talking like two more minutes. I like the open top design which aides in filling it with fuel and in warmer conditions it works without a primer pan (we needed the primer pan in the snow). We also built a pot-stand out of titanium bicycle spokes. Fancy. It’s really cool as it folds flat for storage in our cook pot taking up less space.

The new stove and stand atop kitchen rock. It’s burning and you can see the alcohol is boiling in the stove. We needed to prime the pan to get it started in the freezing weather though.

After dinner we retreated to the tent and tried to sleep. It was a cold night. We have Big Agnes inflatable insulated pads. We love these dearly. They’re much heavier than our Z-rests, but so much more comfortable. We really can’t knock the extra weight as we love the comfort they afford. That said, they preformed poorly on the snow. I was cold in my 35°   bag. N was comfy in her 15° bag, but could feel the cold ground coming through the Big Agnes. At some point in the middle of the night I got out and fetched the butt pads (old Z-rest cut into seats for sitting) and stuffed them under the Big Agnes. That helped along with all the layers we had on and we made it through the night.

The next day some the sun came out and lit up some larches up the slope from our camp. We made breakfast and headed out to retrieve the cameras. The weather stayed clear and we made good time to the cameras.

Sun or no, it got cold. Let’s hear it for layers and warm blood!

Getting ready to go cross country for the cameras.

Well as you know (spoiler alert from September) Camera one took no shots as it was turned off. We found it fairly quick as it had only been five weeks since we’d been here. When we felt close we flipped on the gps and found them right away. Walking on the snow in the morning was easy. It softened up by afternoon and was more of a trudge back to camp. We got back and packed up camp and headed back to town and stayed in a hotel and dried out our gear. The Lunar Duo is a great lightweight (39 oz) single wall. Being a single wall it has a bit of condensation. Usually not a problem if we can keep the vestibule open (warmer calm nights), but this night it just froze. Likewise, our Marmot down bags had a bit of condensation from our heads being tucked in all night. Regardless, we dried out and drove back to home the next day.

Here’s the highlights from camera two.

Balding bear? Mange? Almost looks like plugs eh?

Bear head

Coyote on the move at night.

Snowy knoll

North Cascades September 2011

In September, we returned with fresh batteries, SD cards, and a kite. The plan was to change out the batteries & SD cards, summit some peeks, and fly the kite. We hiked in and found a sweet spot with a seating area for cooking and star gazing.

We loved this camp. Very nice views of the basin and a built in seat. We called it throne camp as that seat had a very royal feel to it and what a view.

Here is a shot looking to the east with Horseshoe and Windy.

And another looking to the south east. We’ll be on top of that high peak (Windy) on the left in two days.

The grasshoppers really liked our camp!

With our camp all set up and the insects having a party we made some dinner. We’re still dehydrating veggies at home and packing them in to make these tasty meals. The recipies we currently have in rotation are a modified Knorr pasta roma recipe, tortellini with a broth, and a bean with chips or tortillas. Lunches have been baguettes or bagels with cheese and fresh veggies and TJ’s baked tofu. Yummy. Granola and powdered milk is the usual breakfast. We brought some Kashi oatmeal this trip and found it rather offensive. Surprising, as their cereals are so good. We bring trail mixes or homemade granola bars for snacks and some kind of chocolate for desert.

This is a capaliene pasta with knorr mix, roasted red pepper, tomatoes, mushrooms, parmesan cheese, green onions, and spices!

Refried beans with green onions, tomato, and cilantro sitting in its cozy atop our trash.

Don’t forget the hot sauce! Notice the tortilla warmer Nevada made. Under the gloves and pot rag. It’s a foil pouch that rests atop the cook pot and warms the tortillas perfectly.

The next day we hiked to our cameras once we got fairly close we turned on the gps to aide our way. Within minutes it was obvious how folks get lost with these things. As I walked with the unit I realized that I was no longer paying any attention to my surroundings. Just stared at the arrow telling me 150′ more this way then swinging and telling me 415′ that way. Confusing? Yes. We felt like we were headed the right direction, but were we? The gps seemed unsure of itself, but we could tell from the peaks we could see that we were in the right area. Eventually the gps got some confidence and took us right to the first camera. Which had some amazing pictures of black bears checking out the tree we baited. No grizzles though.

Loving that musky smell!

Me too!

 Sadly, one of the straps securing the camera to the tree had snapped. So the next 1000 or so shots look like this (grasses blowing in the wind).

We changed out the batteries and set the camera back up with an improvised strap and headed off to camera two hoping we’d have better shots on this camera when we return in October.

Spoiler alert! The camera was turned off when we returned. We are both super confident that we turned it on after we changed to batteries. Hmm… Broken strap, camera turned off, some folks might speculate about Elves or a Yeti. Some folks.

Oh well, on to camera two. Armed again with the indecisive gps we headed down the shoulder toward the creek and found the knoll without any problem. It had some really nice shots of bears, deer, moose, and coyotes.

 Cinnamon black bear checking out the lures. It’s standing about 9′ tall.

Black bear doing to same thing the day prior.

These deer prefer the camera. They’re actually looking up the slope.

Moose!

Coyote cruising thru the knoll. Headed to the creek?

We think that’s the same black cinnamon black bear from camera one. The black bear may be the one we will encounter tomorrow on our way to summit Windy peak. It appears the deer find the camera more interesting than the lure as we get a lot of deer shots like this. We saw another coyote on the shoulder of a mountain near our camp.

We changed out the batteries and indulged on a baugette with a soft cheese, baked tofu, tomatoes, onions, and fresh basil. Quite a yummy treat! We got our selves cleaned up and hiked back to camp.

Nevada decided we needed to pack in our kite. A couple of the mountain tops in this area have a shelf on them and peaks are generally windy places to begin with. So, what better place to fly a kite.

Nevada on Arnold trying to get the kite aloft.

Success! Nevada fly’s with fly.

Mike’s turn on Arnold.

View south from Arnold

Mike had better luck getting the kite aloft at camp

Any success we had with the kite was short lived. The wind would either change direction or stop. We had a lot of fun at our camp. Tomorrow we hike on to summit Windy peak. We set off early and made good time hiking in the cooler predawn hours. Nevada was leading the way when she spotted a black bear cub. Our noise spooked the cub and its mother. We suspect it was the same black bear from the camera. Regardless, we made a lot of noise and stopped for a long lunch. We made it to the peak in the early afternoon and stashed our packs and made our way to the top. We’ve been on Windy before and the views are amazing.

Where’s Mike?

Bugs love it on peaks. This one was covered in ladybugs and bees.

Full can on the peak

That can was left on the peak by the Mountaineers. They have cans on a lot of peaks here in Washington. We took all the old notes out and left some fresh note paper with our log entry. We packed out the old notes and brought them to their headquarters here in Seattle. We were really excited about this as we had understood that they used these notes to record usage data on the backcountry. No such luck. They archive them at the Suzzallo library at the University of Washington Seattle. Oh well, we had a note in there form 2009 that is now in the archives. Good times!

Hello!

North Cascades July 2011

We spent this summer and fall volunteering with Conservation Northwest again. Like last year, we placed remote cameras in the Northern Cascades near the Canadian border. In July we hiked into an area where we’ve backpacked many times, really lovely county with numerous peaks in the 8000′ range. All of which are readily accessible from the 7000′ basin where we camp. We spent the first day hiking in and taking pictures of scat and fungus. We then made it to the basin where we intended on camping and found a sweet spot with some shelter from the morning sun and nice log to function as the kitchen.

Shooting stars

The hike into the basin has looked like this since the Tripod Complex fire of 2006. This shot is from 2009

Looking west at Windy the burn was devastating.

And the forest is recovering

The next day we did some off trail bushwhacking we found two real good looking locations for the cameras. They were are at least one mile from a marked trail, near a game trail, food source, and water source. One was right along a game trail near a large strawberry patch. At this location we placed the larger and heavier Leaf River camera and baited a downed log with game lures. We then hiked on and found a small knoll with another game trail near a berry patch. Here we set up the lighter Bushnell camera and baited the target tree with the lures. We recorded the data and set our location on the Garmin GPS unit they lent us.

canine scat

Canine scat chuck full of bones and fur

Bear scat chuck full of scat

Fungus

More of this bright orange fungus. Slime mold perhaps?

We were using two lures. One specifically for bear, it has a nice musky smell to it and we both found it rather acceptable to the nose. The other lure was for wolf and smelled like skunk with fresh cracked pepper corn. Not very pleasant. These and the cameras were provided to us along with instructions from CNW. We were super careful with these lures and pack them in small nalgine containers, bring surgical gloves along, a supply of ziplock baggies, and good ol’Dr Bronner’s soap. We also use these awesome odor-proof bags from ALOK. We bought them to use with our Ursack bear bag and absolutely love them. We had all the lures bottled and in at least four if not five heavy duty freezer ziplock baggies. Nevada and the cats could smell them the instant I brought them in the house. So, I then put them into their designated odor-proof bag and the smell was gone. Really cool and a testament to all the hype on their packaging.

 One, two, two lures.

Bushnell on the knoll

Regardless of our ability to keep the odors at bay I inevitability got some on my jacket. Bummer. We finished baiting the second tree and hiked on to a stream and washed out the lure from my jacket. Sadly, it was the unpleasant wolf lure and even worse we could still smell it after multiple washings with Dr. Bonner’s (not as awesome as we thought) soap. The Jacket spent the night by itself. The next day we hiked back out. This was a quick trip as we were returning again in September to change batteries and SD cards. Then in October we’ll retrieve the cameras before winter sets in.